Friday, September 21, 2007

The Road to Bois de Laurence

...is rough.

A few days after returning to Dezam, I went with another MCCer, Brian, up to a small mountain village named Bois de Laurence. The trip takes anywhere between 8 to 12 hours, depending on how many times you get stuck. (Actually, it could take even longer if you really get stuck.) We only got stuck a few times, so it only took us 10 hours. Let's just say I have deep respect for Land Rovers, Brian's driving skills, and people (such as Brian) who can dig a Land Rover out of the mud with a machete.

MCC used to have a relatively large program in BDL, but they phased it out a year or two ago. They maintain connections, though, with a local group who works on spring capping. So, every couple of months, Brian heads up to BDL to deliver supplies, deliver money, and maintain relationships. I convinced him to take me along.

BDL is a beautiful village. It's close to the border with the DR, so the deforestation isn't quite as severe. There is no electricity, and to use a cell phone you have to climb to the top of the mountain a little way out of town and stand in 1 specific spot on a hill. Because of its remoteness, people have been minimally effected by television and other aspects of globalization. People are kind and generous. The weather is cool. (One night I was so cold I couldn't sleep!) There are fresh fruit and vegetables everywhere. It seems a little like paradise -- till you start to realize the problems.

They grow wonderful produce, but have no way to transport it to other towns to be sold. The closest hospital is at least an hour and a half away. People die from things like childbirth and diarrhea. Education is minimal.

----

Brian was going to BDL to work with a small group of veterinarians who had come to put on a 2-day clinic. The first day they did a refresher training for local vets and the 2nd day the gave free vaccinations to animals. They offered to walk me through the process of neutering a dog, but I politely declined. I know, I know, I've completely lost my sense of adventure. I did watch, though.

Brian, two of the vets (Kelly & Liz), and I stayed with a couple who have worked for MCC over the years, Niniz and Milsent. When I wasn't watching animals being poked, pricked, and cut, I spent my time with Niniz, Milsnet, and their son, Macdo. Niniz taught me how to make coffee with sugarcane syrup and how to make mai mole (the corn dish similar to couscous). She showed me where they press the sugarcane and we told jokes and laughed till my sides hurt. Milsent took me around the other side of the mountain to his gardens where I napped under a tree in the middle of his rice paddy and ate orange after orange from his grove. Macdo, Kelly, Liz & I played Uno by lantern. We sat outside talking and watching the stars till we were exhausted. It was absolutely wonderful. Niniz made me promise I would come back soon, and I hope I can.

-L

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